Everybody loves a good comeback story. From the 2005 Champion’s League final dubbed the ‘Miracle of Istanbul’ to Tiger Woods winning the Masters in 2019 – his first major since 2008, we’ve seen some remarkable comebacks over the years. Without doubt however, in my mind at least, one of the most impressive has been the return of rye whisky.
Once the most common variety of whisky in the US, rye gradually faded into obscurity and was replaced by corn as the grain of choice for whisky distillers in post-Prohibition America. In the 90s, rye all but disappeared completely, as the populace gravitated towards Bourbon and Scotch. But then, a couple of decades later, like George Foreman at the age of 45, rye staged an epic comeback. With more body, along with fruity, peppery, and those trademark spicy notes, rye proved it could hang with the big boys of the whisky world.
As you can probably tell, the whisky we’ll be looking at today is a rye, specifically, it’s a rye from Fielden (previously ‘The Oxford Artisan Distillery’) known as Harvest 2019.
Whisky Shaped by the British Weather
If there’s one thing you can guarantee here in the UK, it’s that our summers are going to be wet and disappointing (unless you enjoy mild and drizzly days). Because of this, we constantly have to adapt, and the same is especially true in the whisky industry.
English whisky may not be anywhere near as pronounced as Scotch, but don’t let that fool you, there’s still a huge market for good English whisky, and Fielden whisky definitely fits that criteria.
Fielden, who are soon to be relocated to the Yorkshire countryside of Goole, Fielden have embraced the diversity of the British countryside, utilising heritage grains in their expressions. This approach to whisky making is something I’d love to see more of, and it’s likely that’s exactly what will happen.
Fielden Harvest 2019
Fielden are very much advocates of regenerative farming in the UK. The heritage grains they produce are grown naturally, just as Mother Nature herself intended. In their own words ‘that means no agrichemicals, no herbicides, no pesticides, and no fungicides’.
As a result of a particularly wet and mild summer in 2019, the rye harvested by Fielden had a much more delicate finish than previous harvests. This meant fresher aromas with floral summery undertones. It meant a rye whisky that was, and is, incredibly moreish.
The weather in 2019 meant for a higher yield of grain. That’s the great thing about British whisky, you never know how a crop is going to turn out from one season to the next.
Harvest 2019 classic is made from 70% rye, along with 20% wheat and 10% malted barley. There is also a second recipe which is made from 100% rye, 75% of which is malted, and 25% is raw. The one I’m looking at today is the classic recipe.
The mash fermented for four – five days before being double-distilled and matured in a combination of nine different casks, aged for 38 months before being married together over the course of 82 days. The casks used were primarily second-fill American Oak, along with Ramandolo wine barrels and a Sauternes barrique to bring out all manner of different characteristics.
At 50% ABV you certainly get the peppery, spicy kick you’d expect from a good rye, though this golden straw-coloured delight wasn’t as harsh as I was expecting. It was actually surprisingly smooth.
On the nose ginger and spicy white pepper are the instant standouts. These gradually make way to more orchard fruity notes. There are good florals here too. Think a sunny summer meadow after a heavy downpour and you’re not a million miles away.
On the palate, however, is where Harvest 2019 really shines. It’s full-bodied, it’s fresh, it’s vibrant, and it’s bursting with ripe red orchard apples. There’s a creaminess to it, not too dissimilar to butterscotch pudding. Sip again, and you’ll get the spicy peppery notes synonymous with a rye, coupled with Jamaican ginger cake.
The finish was spicy and drawn out, with citrus notes, black pepper, fresh garden herbs, and a hint of strawberry sorbet. Very interesting, this one. A lot going on, and I’m all for that.
If you’d like to learn more about your favourite whiskies, or simply treat yourself to a wee dram or two at the same time, head on over to GreatDrams.com and take a look at the impressive selection of whiskies we have available.